Bell 206: JetRanger and LongRanger
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Chilliwack, BC Canada
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You beat me to it, ...Yes it is CSL 1176, dated 15 December 1992. It also states that a C20 engine may reach 820C on an optimized start.
If you require a copy, I can fax it to you....
If you require a copy, I can fax it to you....
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Philadelphia PA
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We have a C20B that is very slow between 50 and 58% on the first start of the day. I had also seen this many years ago on a 206 operated at the Bell factory (who did everything they could to find the cause, to no avail)
Worse on colder days than hot days. I did some checking with a friend who is a very experienced ex-tech rep from the manufacturer.
He explained that the problem is due to cold fuel and that a strip-down of the fuel control would solve the problem, but that this was probably not cost effective. Just live with it.
As it added only about 5 seconds over the normal start time, he didn't think it was going to affect the starter for over heating, as at the RPMs it was running at, the current draw was pretty small.
So we live with it.
If the N1 genuinely hangs up and doesn't accelerate at all, that's a different story.
Worse on colder days than hot days. I did some checking with a friend who is a very experienced ex-tech rep from the manufacturer.
He explained that the problem is due to cold fuel and that a strip-down of the fuel control would solve the problem, but that this was probably not cost effective. Just live with it.
As it added only about 5 seconds over the normal start time, he didn't think it was going to affect the starter for over heating, as at the RPMs it was running at, the current draw was pretty small.
So we live with it.
If the N1 genuinely hangs up and doesn't accelerate at all, that's a different story.
PPRuNe Enigma
Join Date: Feb 2001
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JetRanger conversion
OK gang, I'm starting my JetRanger conversion (Yee Haa 
)
Currently R22/R44 rated.
I've already got the hang of "stick-your-thumb-on-that-button-and-don't-let-go-whatever-happens!"
Any further advice please from all you experienced B206 jocks would be very gratefully received .
Cheers,
G
)Currently R22/R44 rated.
I've already got the hang of "stick-your-thumb-on-that-button-and-don't-let-go-whatever-happens!"
Any further advice please from all you experienced B206 jocks would be very gratefully received .
Cheers,
G
You called?
The conversion is a doddle: it really is a delight to fly. As you've already figured, it's the start that's exciting - the only other thing to remember is how long it is (OK, that's a bit simplistic, but not far from the truth).
Once you're converted, here's 4 golden rules
1) Be prepared to smell faintly of kerosene at all times
2) Be prepared to look down your nose at all Robinson helicopters
3) Be prepared for very large bills whenever it goes in for maintenance. If they're small, celebrate!
4) Enjoy it!
PS Wanna buy one? Just contemplating buying one in from the States, so my nice one might be coming up soon
The conversion is a doddle: it really is a delight to fly. As you've already figured, it's the start that's exciting - the only other thing to remember is how long it is (OK, that's a bit simplistic, but not far from the truth).
Once you're converted, here's 4 golden rules
1) Be prepared to smell faintly of kerosene at all times
2) Be prepared to look down your nose at all Robinson helicopters
3) Be prepared for very large bills whenever it goes in for maintenance. If they're small, celebrate!
4) Enjoy it!
PS Wanna buy one? Just contemplating buying one in from the States, so my nice one might be coming up soon
Join Date: Feb 2002
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A few basics
First of all don't worry, the 206 must be the easiest helicopter to fly around, and please don't stir the ciclic as many people who come from Robinsons do when they first step into a turbine, only apply as much input as needed and "leave it there" controls are much more precise than in a Robbie.
1. At a given GW, aprox. Aprox. 10% more power is required to hover OGE than IGE.
2.- Aprox. 1% TQ is equals about 30 pounds of stuff you can carry
3.- Aproximately 3% TQ is lost with each 1000 FT gain in altitude
4.- Aprox. 1% TQ is about 4 SHP
5.- The helicopter should be level and CLOSE to the ground before NR is below 70% during practice autos
6.- Aprox. 1% TQ is lost with each 1.5 degree Celsius rise in OAT
7.- It will land on a steeper slope with the right skid upslope, when its balanced properly.
8.- It its starts a little hot and you need to start right a few minutes after you just shut down, opening the engine covers will help a lot in cooling down before the next start.
9.- Watch your pedal authority when at altitude, and please don't over TQ.
Have fun.
1. At a given GW, aprox. Aprox. 10% more power is required to hover OGE than IGE.
2.- Aprox. 1% TQ is equals about 30 pounds of stuff you can carry
3.- Aproximately 3% TQ is lost with each 1000 FT gain in altitude
4.- Aprox. 1% TQ is about 4 SHP
5.- The helicopter should be level and CLOSE to the ground before NR is below 70% during practice autos
6.- Aprox. 1% TQ is lost with each 1.5 degree Celsius rise in OAT
7.- It will land on a steeper slope with the right skid upslope, when its balanced properly.
8.- It its starts a little hot and you need to start right a few minutes after you just shut down, opening the engine covers will help a lot in cooling down before the next start.
9.- Watch your pedal authority when at altitude, and please don't over TQ.
Have fun.
all good advice from those who posted above....and the most important thing to remember...whatever you do....never...never ....never fly a MD 500D or E or F.....or you will realize how much money you wasted on the 206 when you could have flown a really fun machine....with the same engine. A machine that goes like the clappers...turns on a penny....loves grass in the overhead vistas.
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But which is massively uncomfortable for passengers and doesn't have room to carry your briefcase. There's a good reason none are flying in the oil patch. They're fun for the pilot, but they don't pay us to have fun; they pay us to haul payload, and that machine won't do the job.
PPRuNe Enigma
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Thanks guys, a wealth of knowledge out there ! Keep 'em coming !
Another flight today - I'll try not to stir the cyclic ! - I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers,
G
Another flight today - I'll try not to stir the cyclic ! - I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers,
G
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Me too!
I'm gonna be doing the 206 conversion in a few weeks (fingers crossed), once I've passed my flight test too so all these little tips are great. I've been told by my instructor that the Snotrangers are all too easy to over-torque when they're a bit heavy and you're not careful with your left foot. Is there any specific technique to use when you're a bit heavy and you're likely to run it up to the redline (hovering crosswind - LTE, high altitudes)? 
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Cyclic waggle , Grainger
Just a tip, when your near mtow or operating at high altitudes on approach into a pad, make sure you have a nice rate of descent not to steep if you have the terrain to do so, get that power in early to spool up the turbine dont leave it till the end when you decide to pull the collective up under your armpit!! it wont be there the turbine will take longer to spool up than pistions which are instant.
be aware of you wind azimuth tables when hoovering. they are there for a reason.
as blender says dont stir the pot. there wont be any feel to the controls you will have to feel it in your bum!..smal moovements . they are a very pilot friendly machine, docile and as tough as nails!!
enjoy this superb piece of machinery guys.. i never get sick of stepping into one!!
Just a tip, when your near mtow or operating at high altitudes on approach into a pad, make sure you have a nice rate of descent not to steep if you have the terrain to do so, get that power in early to spool up the turbine dont leave it till the end when you decide to pull the collective up under your armpit!! it wont be there the turbine will take longer to spool up than pistions which are instant.
be aware of you wind azimuth tables when hoovering. they are there for a reason.
as blender says dont stir the pot. there wont be any feel to the controls you will have to feel it in your bum!..smal moovements . they are a very pilot friendly machine, docile and as tough as nails!!
enjoy this superb piece of machinery guys.. i never get sick of stepping into one!!
PPRuNe Enigma
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Great advice guys, and helped me to have a brilliant day out today. Kept the stick waggling to a minimum, and we did some autos and PFLs, and flew a whole approach and go-around with simulated hydraulic failure (minimal waggling really helped here). Hovering auto in particular much less of a drama than in the Robbo.
Was a bit too enthusiastic pulling in the power at the bottom of the first PFL - looks like you need to be really careful to avoid over-torqueing, so that's something I'll work on for next time.
The other thing I noticed was that the workload is still quite high getting used to the different environment / control layout, and that means the scan isn't up to the usual standards - once I get more used to it then hopefully I'll get back to flying the numbers.
Great experience and a fantastic day out. It's a bit like falling in love all over again.
All those of you flying tomorrow, have a great day !
Was a bit too enthusiastic pulling in the power at the bottom of the first PFL - looks like you need to be really careful to avoid over-torqueing, so that's something I'll work on for next time.
The other thing I noticed was that the workload is still quite high getting used to the different environment / control layout, and that means the scan isn't up to the usual standards - once I get more used to it then hopefully I'll get back to flying the numbers.
Great experience and a fantastic day out. It's a bit like falling in love all over again.
All those of you flying tomorrow, have a great day !
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The 206 is a very docile machine to handle. Good advice to get the power in earlier than you normally would in a robbo and take things nice and slow (especially with the tail rotor as said) and it won't bite you. I always think that the 206 gives you lots of feedback as to how it's feeling (hot , heavy, high etc.) coaxing usually does the trick more than thrashing. A very reliable workhorse.
BUT.....give me an AS350 any day!
BUT.....give me an AS350 any day!
Not too sure about the 'slow spool up' comment above; generally if you have the power available to do what you're proposing to do, it will be there pretty much straight away when you pull on the collective (some machines have lazy governors, but that's a different thing).
Getting the approach stablilised early is good, though, from the point of view that you will know early if you'll be using high power settings in an approach rather than getting a rude shock as you come to the hover above a pinnacle or whatever.
Racing down in auto and reefing on the collective at the last moment will certainly make for torque spikes and use of more power than you otherwise would have done.
Getting the approach stablilised early is good, though, from the point of view that you will know early if you'll be using high power settings in an approach rather than getting a rude shock as you come to the hover above a pinnacle or whatever.
Racing down in auto and reefing on the collective at the last moment will certainly make for torque spikes and use of more power than you otherwise would have done.
Once you get comfortable enough with the machinery that you can flick the battery switch on without having to look up and search for it, you'll probably be pretty good at flying it. Others here have given great advice. I can only add two cents more.
CYCLIC FRICTION! Many pilots like to take the friction completely off in their 206's, which produces a very loose control that feels as if it's not connected to anything. Not good. If you watch such pilots in flight, their cyclics move too much. Maybe not all the time- but in general. Too loose is not good.
While there are those who claim to be able to keep the cyclic absolutely still under all conditions, I've flown with enough to know this is simply not true. Watch their right hand while they fly. You will see the cyclic jiggle and wiggle (with some pilots it never stops moving!). Remember this: Each time the cyclic moves, the swash plate moves. And more often than not, the swash plate does not need to be moving.
I use enough cyclic friction to creat a drag. Not so much that movement of the stick is inhibited, but enough to give me a "break-out force." The 206 responds really well to that "pressure, not actual movement" theory we were taught back in Primary. With absolutely no cyclic friction, it is almost impossible to apply pressure to the stick without actually moving it. I demonstrate this to disbelieving pilots by putting on a lot of friction in flight. On a relatively calm day, you can set up a very nice hover or even a rock-solid cruise and the cyclic never has to move. And they'll go, "Yeah, you're right, but I just like it better the other way." Eh- personal preferences.
On the other hand, too much friction makes for jerky control movements though, as you fight your way through the break-out force. Over the years (8,000 hours in 206's alone) I have experimented and have found that if I use enough friction to keep the cyclic from moving on it's own, that's just about right. For me. For you, I cannot say anything but please use *some* cyclic friction. It will make you a smoother pilot.
Here's another tidbit I learned a long time ago: Never pull the collective faster than the torquemeter needle can move. Allison 250's have pretty good response, but that gas generator huffs and puffs as it tries to match power to the demand, and there is a slight lag. If you experiment you will see that you can indeed pull faster than the needle. Not a good thing when making large collective movements up near your power limit. Don't do that.
And that's the thing about all turbines- you don't get much tactile feel between, oh, 80% torque and 120%. So you learn to keep both eyes outside of the cockpit but your third eye on that torque gauge. Eventually, you'll get to learn where your left arm is at 80% (or whatever your cruise torque value is), and that reference will help you greatly on takeoff and landing. Eighty percent is eight percent. So if you're doing something tricky and you're concentrating outside the aircraft and you suddenly realize that your left elbow is cocked a lot more than usual and your left leg is almost straight out, you might want to glance at that torquemeter.
One final thing. If there are just two of you onboard when you're hovering and you turn your tail into the wind, you will be in for a startling experience. The wind will get under that horizontal stabilizer and lift the tail like you wouldn't believe. You'll find yourself with the nose down, stick back in your gut, moving forward and thinking about that flimsy tin that the tail rotor driveshaft cover is made of while wondering if you'll actually feel it when the main rotor blade slices through the tail rotor driveshaft.
I love the 206. It is probably my all-time favorite aircraft.
CYCLIC FRICTION! Many pilots like to take the friction completely off in their 206's, which produces a very loose control that feels as if it's not connected to anything. Not good. If you watch such pilots in flight, their cyclics move too much. Maybe not all the time- but in general. Too loose is not good.
While there are those who claim to be able to keep the cyclic absolutely still under all conditions, I've flown with enough to know this is simply not true. Watch their right hand while they fly. You will see the cyclic jiggle and wiggle (with some pilots it never stops moving!). Remember this: Each time the cyclic moves, the swash plate moves. And more often than not, the swash plate does not need to be moving.
I use enough cyclic friction to creat a drag. Not so much that movement of the stick is inhibited, but enough to give me a "break-out force." The 206 responds really well to that "pressure, not actual movement" theory we were taught back in Primary. With absolutely no cyclic friction, it is almost impossible to apply pressure to the stick without actually moving it. I demonstrate this to disbelieving pilots by putting on a lot of friction in flight. On a relatively calm day, you can set up a very nice hover or even a rock-solid cruise and the cyclic never has to move. And they'll go, "Yeah, you're right, but I just like it better the other way." Eh- personal preferences.
On the other hand, too much friction makes for jerky control movements though, as you fight your way through the break-out force. Over the years (8,000 hours in 206's alone) I have experimented and have found that if I use enough friction to keep the cyclic from moving on it's own, that's just about right. For me. For you, I cannot say anything but please use *some* cyclic friction. It will make you a smoother pilot.
Here's another tidbit I learned a long time ago: Never pull the collective faster than the torquemeter needle can move. Allison 250's have pretty good response, but that gas generator huffs and puffs as it tries to match power to the demand, and there is a slight lag. If you experiment you will see that you can indeed pull faster than the needle. Not a good thing when making large collective movements up near your power limit. Don't do that.
And that's the thing about all turbines- you don't get much tactile feel between, oh, 80% torque and 120%. So you learn to keep both eyes outside of the cockpit but your third eye on that torque gauge. Eventually, you'll get to learn where your left arm is at 80% (or whatever your cruise torque value is), and that reference will help you greatly on takeoff and landing. Eighty percent is eight percent. So if you're doing something tricky and you're concentrating outside the aircraft and you suddenly realize that your left elbow is cocked a lot more than usual and your left leg is almost straight out, you might want to glance at that torquemeter.
One final thing. If there are just two of you onboard when you're hovering and you turn your tail into the wind, you will be in for a startling experience. The wind will get under that horizontal stabilizer and lift the tail like you wouldn't believe. You'll find yourself with the nose down, stick back in your gut, moving forward and thinking about that flimsy tin that the tail rotor driveshaft cover is made of while wondering if you'll actually feel it when the main rotor blade slices through the tail rotor driveshaft.
I love the 206. It is probably my all-time favorite aircraft.
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Hi All,
What great advice. I have just finished my conversion here in the US. What a great machine to fly!, different to my Bell 47!!. I found Auto's a dream, and a hovering auto a non event. Can't wait to do some more with it. Thanks all.
Darren
What great advice. I have just finished my conversion here in the US. What a great machine to fly!, different to my Bell 47!!. I found Auto's a dream, and a hovering auto a non event. Can't wait to do some more with it. Thanks all.
Darren
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The 206 is a simple aircraft with all the bugs worked out of it. Treat it right and it will reward you with great reliability and very enjoyable flying. The only problem you’ll have is a reluctance to get back in a Robinson afterwards, no matter how much you liked them before! For your transition, remember it is just another helicopter, everything you learned so far still applies.
The most common way I’ve seen (and done) of getting torque and TOT spikes in the 206, is late and/or insufficient application of left pedal as collective is raised and/or airspeed decreases through ETL. Now the nose starts yawing right, the left foot goes in, and about two seconds later you may have a 15% torque spike. This is especially common if ETL is lost unexpectedly on approach, due to misjudging the wind and/or flying a fast approach. The ship starts sinking, collective is raised quickly, forgetting the pedals, oops the nose is going right, stand on the pedal… overtorque.
The way to avoid this is obviously to anticipate, much more so than in any RHC product. Get the left pedal in early, it’s easy to take it out if it was a bit too much, and you won’t have any problems. The same goes for the collective actually, start raising it early during deceleration on approach, and you’ll never have to “grab an armful of collective”.
If you’re hovering at high AUW, using high torque, and the nose slews right due to a gust, you have to get on the left pedal right away, or you might get into LTE (the 206 tail rotor is much less effective than those of the R22 and R44). But at the same time as you push the left pedal, GENTLY LOWER THE COLLECTIVE. This decreases the torque output of the engine, thereby also decreasing right-turning tendency your pedal input has to overcome. If the skids should touch the ground, well that’s what they’re for (obviously not if you’re moving sideways at any speed).
Hot starts are mainly due to three things: finger trouble, weak battery, dodgy fuel control. Avoid the finger trouble by ALWAYS, just before hitting the starter button, rolling the throttle full open, down to idle and then closed. Now you know it’s closed. Have your left hand on the throttle, press the idle stop down with your right index and the starter with your right middle finger (“two-fingered start”). Should TOT rise alarmingly, snap the throttle shut with your left hand, keep your right hand where it is for 10 secs. to motor the engine. Instant abort.
Learn to recognize a weak battery by how rapidly the igniter snaps and how quickly the engine pitch increases. Another good indication I’ve found is watching how much the fuel pressure drops as you hit the starter, if it drops to near zero the battery is weak. As your experience grows you’ll quickly be able to tell if the start is liable to become a “hung start” or will come out OK. When in doubt, get an APU or battery cart. If the aircraft doesn’t fly much, an older NiCad battery will get a lot worse in the interval between deep cycles, and even sitting for a day or so will cause it to lose charge.
With a good fuel control, there’ll be two minor but distinct TOT spikes during start: just above 20% N1 and just above 30% N1. With a worn-out fuel control, these spikes are often greater in magnitude, and may happen at different stages of the start. One of my “high-pucker-factor” starts in the 206 happened with a TOT spike at 55% N1! One thing I’ve observed and used to my advantage, is that while the Bendix fuel control is supposedly non-modulated, if you roll on the throttle just until it lights off and stop, the start will be cooler than if you go to idle right away. I’ve never been able to get an explanation for this, and many people don’t believe it, but my technique when working with a known marginal fuel control has been: roll on the throttle until the fuel pressure dips down, hold the throttle position, light off about 1 sec. later, hold the throttle position until after the second TOT spike at 30-35%, roll to idle. It seems to work for me.
If the throttle is very stiff to move, it’s most often due to a certain bearing in the linkage behind the collective (don’t know exactly which one, your engineer should be able to help you). Replacing this bearing is MUCH cheaper than a hot start.
PPRUNE FAN#1 is correct about the cyclic being moved around due to minor turbulence etc., however I’m tall enough that I can very comfortably rest my right knee against the door post. Thus, my hand really doesn’t move. If you’re so short that this won’t work for you, good for you, the cockpit will be much more comfortable than for me! And use some cyclic friction like PPF suggests, find which amount works best for you personally.
On your preflight, if you don’t see any spilled oil, you’re out of oil! This applies to engine as well as MGB. BUT, if you should see any oil leaking from any of the stainless steel oil lines on the engine, be sure and get an engineer to look at it. This oil goes to bearings which turn at close to 50,000 rpm, and they really need that oil…
Staying with the subject, some 206s have a sight glass on the engine oil tank. These are no more than ornaments. Always take the cap off and look into the tank. If you can see the seam of the tank, you can add one quart, so you won’t have to keep half-full cans of oil around. If on the other hand your engine oil tank is suddenly full to overflowing, the labyrinth seal between the overrunning clutch and the ancillary gearbox is probably blown, and oil from the MGB is transferring into the engine.
You’ll love the 206 like I did and still do! But if I can ever find the engineer responsible for the pilot seat I’ll strap him into an old one for 10 hours and we’ll have a chat about if he still thinks it such a good design then!
The most common way I’ve seen (and done) of getting torque and TOT spikes in the 206, is late and/or insufficient application of left pedal as collective is raised and/or airspeed decreases through ETL. Now the nose starts yawing right, the left foot goes in, and about two seconds later you may have a 15% torque spike. This is especially common if ETL is lost unexpectedly on approach, due to misjudging the wind and/or flying a fast approach. The ship starts sinking, collective is raised quickly, forgetting the pedals, oops the nose is going right, stand on the pedal… overtorque.
The way to avoid this is obviously to anticipate, much more so than in any RHC product. Get the left pedal in early, it’s easy to take it out if it was a bit too much, and you won’t have any problems. The same goes for the collective actually, start raising it early during deceleration on approach, and you’ll never have to “grab an armful of collective”.
If you’re hovering at high AUW, using high torque, and the nose slews right due to a gust, you have to get on the left pedal right away, or you might get into LTE (the 206 tail rotor is much less effective than those of the R22 and R44). But at the same time as you push the left pedal, GENTLY LOWER THE COLLECTIVE. This decreases the torque output of the engine, thereby also decreasing right-turning tendency your pedal input has to overcome. If the skids should touch the ground, well that’s what they’re for (obviously not if you’re moving sideways at any speed).
Hot starts are mainly due to three things: finger trouble, weak battery, dodgy fuel control. Avoid the finger trouble by ALWAYS, just before hitting the starter button, rolling the throttle full open, down to idle and then closed. Now you know it’s closed. Have your left hand on the throttle, press the idle stop down with your right index and the starter with your right middle finger (“two-fingered start”). Should TOT rise alarmingly, snap the throttle shut with your left hand, keep your right hand where it is for 10 secs. to motor the engine. Instant abort.
Learn to recognize a weak battery by how rapidly the igniter snaps and how quickly the engine pitch increases. Another good indication I’ve found is watching how much the fuel pressure drops as you hit the starter, if it drops to near zero the battery is weak. As your experience grows you’ll quickly be able to tell if the start is liable to become a “hung start” or will come out OK. When in doubt, get an APU or battery cart. If the aircraft doesn’t fly much, an older NiCad battery will get a lot worse in the interval between deep cycles, and even sitting for a day or so will cause it to lose charge.
With a good fuel control, there’ll be two minor but distinct TOT spikes during start: just above 20% N1 and just above 30% N1. With a worn-out fuel control, these spikes are often greater in magnitude, and may happen at different stages of the start. One of my “high-pucker-factor” starts in the 206 happened with a TOT spike at 55% N1! One thing I’ve observed and used to my advantage, is that while the Bendix fuel control is supposedly non-modulated, if you roll on the throttle just until it lights off and stop, the start will be cooler than if you go to idle right away. I’ve never been able to get an explanation for this, and many people don’t believe it, but my technique when working with a known marginal fuel control has been: roll on the throttle until the fuel pressure dips down, hold the throttle position, light off about 1 sec. later, hold the throttle position until after the second TOT spike at 30-35%, roll to idle. It seems to work for me.
If the throttle is very stiff to move, it’s most often due to a certain bearing in the linkage behind the collective (don’t know exactly which one, your engineer should be able to help you). Replacing this bearing is MUCH cheaper than a hot start.
PPRUNE FAN#1 is correct about the cyclic being moved around due to minor turbulence etc., however I’m tall enough that I can very comfortably rest my right knee against the door post. Thus, my hand really doesn’t move. If you’re so short that this won’t work for you, good for you, the cockpit will be much more comfortable than for me! And use some cyclic friction like PPF suggests, find which amount works best for you personally.
On your preflight, if you don’t see any spilled oil, you’re out of oil! This applies to engine as well as MGB. BUT, if you should see any oil leaking from any of the stainless steel oil lines on the engine, be sure and get an engineer to look at it. This oil goes to bearings which turn at close to 50,000 rpm, and they really need that oil…
Staying with the subject, some 206s have a sight glass on the engine oil tank. These are no more than ornaments. Always take the cap off and look into the tank. If you can see the seam of the tank, you can add one quart, so you won’t have to keep half-full cans of oil around. If on the other hand your engine oil tank is suddenly full to overflowing, the labyrinth seal between the overrunning clutch and the ancillary gearbox is probably blown, and oil from the MGB is transferring into the engine.
You’ll love the 206 like I did and still do! But if I can ever find the engineer responsible for the pilot seat I’ll strap him into an old one for 10 hours and we’ll have a chat about if he still thinks it such a good design then!
PPRuNe Enigma
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Thakns guys - next flight in on Friday, plenty of things for me to think about and to try out.
Here's the next question - is there any truth to the rumour that you are not supposed / allowed to fly any other types during the type conversion ? I couldn't find anything about this in LASORS ?
Here's the next question - is there any truth to the rumour that you are not supposed / allowed to fly any other types during the type conversion ? I couldn't find anything about this in LASORS ?
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Grainger:
That is only a JAR-OPS restriction contained in JAR-OPS 3.945(a)(8)
- it can be alleviated by the Authority under certain circumstances:
That is only a JAR-OPS restriction contained in JAR-OPS 3.945(a)(8)
Once an operator's conversion course has been commenced, a flight crew member does not undertake flying duties on another type until the course is completed or terminated [unless otherwise approved by the Authority (See IEM OPS 3.945(a)(8))]
[list=1][*]A conversion course is deemed to have started when the flying or STD has begun. The theoretical element of a conversion course may be undertaken ahead of the practical element.
[*]Under certain circumstances a conversion course may have started and reached a stage where, for unforeseen reasons, it is not possible to complete it without a delay. In these circumstances the operator may apply to the Authority to allow the pilot to revert to the original type.
[*]Before the resumption of the conversion course the operator should establish with the Authority how much of the conversion course needs to be re-covered before continuing with the remainder of the course.[/list=1]
[*]Under certain circumstances a conversion course may have started and reached a stage where, for unforeseen reasons, it is not possible to complete it without a delay. In these circumstances the operator may apply to the Authority to allow the pilot to revert to the original type.
[*]Before the resumption of the conversion course the operator should establish with the Authority how much of the conversion course needs to be re-covered before continuing with the remainder of the course.[/list=1]
PPRuNe Enigma
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Thanks Mars - and if I understand correctly, JAR-OPS applies to Commercial Air Transportation, so as a PPL(H) doing a conversion, that restriction doesn't apply ?